Bucatini all’amatriciana virtually courses through the veins of Romans. Aside from their love affair with innards (tripe, stomach, kidneys), Romans love nothing more than a hot bowl of bucatini bathed in a lightly spiced tomato sauce studded with guanciale (guanciale is the cured and smoked jowl of the pig; pancetta hails from the belly). Since 1957, Matricianella has been enjoying its discreet, beautiful position in the Centro Storico, near Piazza di Spagna and Fontanella Borghese, because their version of the Roman trattoria classic is that good. We also sampled their “risotto alla cicoria” (radicchio risotto) which played out perfectly- spice and bitter from the radicchio nicely mellowed out with the round, fattiness of butter and parmesan. But that’s it. Don’t branch out and get fancy. Matricianella is about the tried-and-true, not the nouveau. Even their cheese & charcuterie platter misses the mark (in fact, we’re pretty sure that our Associated Supermarket does a better version). Nab an outdoor table, soak in the streetscape and dig into a bowl of the house specialty. Finish your well-priced bottle of wine and thank your lucky stars you’re in La Cita Eterna.
Via del Leone, 4